FOLLOWING THE MUSSELSHELL RIVER

If a person tracks our favorite river northwest for a couple hundred miles, he realizes it has a twin sister or brother river, and near the confluence of the north and south siblings is the territory of the original Settle ranch. Over a period of 150 years the definition of "Settle ranch" has changed from time to time via certain land transactions, and the chief produce has varied between sheep and cattle, but there was the headquarters of the enterprise founded in the 1870s by Martin Settle and his uncle, Dr. Henry Clark.

In 1919 Martin's star-crossed eldest, Edward, succeeded his father, and for that man a four-leaf clover would have constituted an ominous sign. Each of his four wives suffered an untimely death, and he became bankrupt when each of his four crops failed.

Edward's son, Martin, attended M.S. College, Bozeman, and joined the Montana National Guard in 1940. Thanks to World War II, his education abruptly ended when his group was sent to combat in New Guinea. For the remainder of his life he was so grateful he survived, so many did not. After the war he returned to college, but again his education was abbreviated when his father became ill, and he assumed control of the ranch. He met the love of his life, Adeline, a music teacher, and they were married in 1948. He made sure his three children attended college and was immensely proud when both their sons, Stephen and Scott, earned doctorates.

In 1959, Martin sold the property to Hutterites and in 1961 purchased a portion of a large sheep ranch located in Trinity Gulch and operated by the Chevallier family since 1890. Martin was a tireless rancher, even-tempered, gentle and respectful. When we discovered the Settles in the early 2000s, their youngest son, Scott, and wife, Kelly, were the proprietors of the cattle ranch, northwest of Helena, and were kind hosts to us. Their next-door neighbors were still the Chevalliers, whose cattle headquarters lay in the Little Prickly Pear Canyon.

Martin always preached a ranching philosophy that is valuable not only to his son, but to everyone in the business: "You must always save some grass for Spring and get along with the neighbors."

The Hunters' Lucky Gate

Oil on Canvas

Hunters' and ranchers' sharing the land, where properly governed, makes a win-win situation. The hunter enjoys the thrill and food from bagging his or her prize animal, while the rancher controls the wild animal population, which is always anxious to consume his crops.

Counting Sheep

Oil on Barnwood

The shepherd had to guard his flock around the clock, for coyotes, wolves, and eagles were eager to capture meals. In addition, sheep are not the brightest of God's creatures and wander off, tumble into coolies, or step on rattlesnakes. When the shepherd, like this one, needed sleep, his trusty, well-trained dog earned its keep.

Cathedral of Ranching

Oil on Canvas

The Settle Ranch, now devoted to cattle, has two large, magnificent wooden sheds. These, with giant, cedar pillars, were built by the Chevallier family during the heyday of sheep ranching in Montana. In the murky light we felt the spirits of years long passed, just as we did in the great cathedrals of Notre Dame, Cologne, and others, and their purposes are not so very different. Those of stone were erected to glorify God, whereas this of wood is a testament to His earthly bounty.

Head 'Em Up!

Oil on Barnwood

Based on an old, family photograph, this painting vividly illustrates life in the sheep-herding days. Just as in the most famous of Bible stories, these shepherds kept watch over their flocks by day and by night and cared for as many as 2,200 at one time.

When Indians Were a Threat

Oil on Canvas

This building predates the ranching era and is located on the present ranch near a historic placer mine in Trinity Gulch. Its robust stone and log construction is thought to have thwarted Indian attacks. It was used as a bunkhouse for the early Chevallier sheep ranch, and, when we visited the property, rusting bed springs and frames remained inside.